Sustainable Materials: The Case for Natural Fabrics in Clothing
by Teyah Nichole
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Teyah Nichole
Nichole is an American (she/her), animal-loving, coffee-obsessed, small-talk hating, ENFJ-T , vegetarian based in London. She founded W&S almost two years ago before starting her PhD, with a desire to learn in community with like-minded women. [Get in touch]
We saw this amazing TikTok from @carolinemailan (check out her content!) and got inspired to make this article about sustainable materials and natural fabrics.
Clothes matter; and I’m not just saying this because I’m a woman writing for women. Questions around fashion and clothing have been a pivotal genesis for getting people to think about the environmental and the ecological impacts of the ways by which we consume. Everything from Barack Obama’s brown suit controversy to SHEIN’s horrendous influencer trip demonstrate the considerable influence fashion has on our psyches. Let’s also consider how films such as The True Cost (2015) or The Next Black were huge in raising environmental consciousness.
Pop culture’s supernumerary focus on clothing isn’t going anywhere and isn’t anything new. Takes on “Who Wore it Best” and “Red Carpet Fashion Reviews” are no strangers to our social media timelines as that’s the content we readily engage with. What’s more, according to Fashion United, the United States has the second largest apparel market in the world and the EPA reports that Americans produce 18 million tons of textile waste annually. So,when we’re thinking about progressing to a Green New Deal and transforming our ecological futures for the better, clothing cannot be left on the back burner.
In an attempt to positively contribute to the conversation around the relationship between clothing and the environment, I’ve explored the intricacies and nuances of sustainable materials and textiles, emphasizing the role of natural fabrics. In this article, we look into what sustainable materials for clothing are, why they matter, and give you a detailed shopping guide on natural fabrics to look out for.
In This Article
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What are “Sustainable Materials” in Clothing?
The discourse surrounding sustainable materials usually focuses on the following three issues: environmental impact, ethical manufacturing, and consumer responsibility. At its core, the term "sustainable materials" in fashion refers to fabrics and components that are sourced and produced in ways that are considerate to the environment, beneficial—or at least, non-detrimental—to the communities involved in their production, and durable enough to withstand the test of time, countering the throwaway culture promoted by fast fashion.
The pitfalls of fast fashion are numerous and well-documented, much of which we’ve covered before. (See our article’s detailing the problems with notorious fast-fashion conglomerate SHEIN and our call to action for the end of “shopping hauls” if you’re interested!) . This industry model is predicated on rapid production and a high turnover of cheap, low-quality garments, leading to excessive waste and environmental degradation. It is an unsustainable practice not just in terms of labor ethics but also in its use of materials that are often synthetic, non-biodegradable, and produced through environmentally harmful processes. These materials frequently require significant amounts of water, energy, and chemicals, contributing to pollution and carbon emissions.
In contrast, sustainable materials are those that minimize environmental impact throughout their lifecycle. This includes how the raw materials are grown or produced, how they are processed into fabrics, and their eventual end-of-life. For instance, organic cotton differs from conventional cotton in that it is grown without toxic pesticides and fertilizers, requires less water, and often uses crop rotation, which is beneficial for soil health. Similarly, hemp, another sustainable material, is notable for its low water requirement and minimal need for chemical pesticides or fertilizers.
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Other sustainable materials include Tencel and modal, which are made from sustainably sourced wood pulp and use less toxic chemicals in processing compared to traditional viscose. Recycled materials, such as recycled polyester made from PET bottles, also play a vital role in sustainable fashion. By repurposing existing plastic waste into clothing, these materials reduce the need for virgin resources and help address the issue of plastic pollution.
The significance of sustainable materials extends beyond their environmental impact. The production of these materials often supports fair labor practices and contributes to the economic wellbeing of communities involved in their cultivation and manufacture. For example, organic cotton farming can provide a safer and healthier working environment for farmers, free from exposure to harmful chemicals.
However, sustainable materials are not without their challenges. The transition from conventional to sustainable materials can be costly and requires investment in new technologies and processes. Additionally, the availability of these materials can be limited, and they may come with a higher price tag, making them less accessible to some consumers.
Despite these challenges, the increasing consumer demand for sustainable options is driving innovation in this space. Brands are exploring new sustainable materials like Piñatex, made from pineapple leaf fibers, and Mylo, a leather alternative developed from mycelium. These developments not only offer new sustainable options but also push the boundaries of what sustainable materials can be.
The shift towards sustainable materials in clothing is a crucial step in addressing the environmental and ethical issues plaguing the fashion industry. By choosing garments made from sustainable materials, consumers can play a part in promoting a more responsible fashion industry, one that respects both the planet and its inhabitants. The journey towards sustainable materials is not just about changing the way we dress; it's about reimagining our relationship with clothing and striving for a future where fashion and sustainability coexist harmoniously.
Why Natural Fabrics Make Good Sustainable Materials for Clothing
In assessing the environmental advantages of natural fibers compared to synthetic alternatives such as polyester or rayon, we delve into their impacts on vital environmental aspects, including waterways and nutrient cycles, supported by scientific findings and research data.
Polyester, a widely used synthetic fiber, is petroleum-based. Its production is notably energy-intensive, reported to consume about 70 million barrels of oil annually. This process significantly contributes to greenhouse gas emissions. Furthermore, a recent study conducted in Italy revealed that synthetic garments like polyester release microplastics during washing, averaging over 1,900 microfibers per garment per wash. These microplastics eventually reach the oceans, posing a threat to marine life and entering the human food chain, according to the journal Environmental Science & Technology.
Rayon, although derived from cellulose, requires a chemically intensive manufacturing process. The Changing Markets Foundation's 2016 report highlighted how the toxic chemicals used in rayon production, such as carbon disulfide, often lead to severe water pollution and pose health risks to workers and nearby communities. Additionally, the demand for wood pulp in rayon production contributes to deforestation, disrupting the carbon sequestration and nutrient cycle crucial for environmental balance.
In contrast, natural fibers like cotton, linen, and wool, especially when produced organically, exhibit a lower environmental impact. The Water Footprint Network points out that organic cotton farming can reduce water consumption by up to 91% compared to conventional methods. Moreover, organic practices eliminate the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, thus preventing water pollution and maintaining soil health.
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The biodegradability of natural fibers is a significant environmental advantage. Research by North Carolina State University shows that natural fibers such as cotton and wool decompose much faster than synthetic fibers, contributing to nutrient cycling and reducing long-term environmental pollution. This biodegradability ensures that once discarded, natural fibers can return nutrients to the soil without leaving harmful residues, maintaining ecological balance.
Energy efficiency is another area where natural fibers excel. Wool's natural insulating properties reduce the need for heating, thereby lowering the carbon footprint over the garment's life cycle, as indicated by research from The Woolmark Company.
Natural fibers also play a crucial role in water conservation. Linen, for instance, requires significantly less water than cotton, making it a more sustainable option in water-scarce regions, as reported by the European Confederation of Linen and Hemp.
Transitioning to natural fibers in the fashion industry can significantly reduce its environmental impact, as highlighted by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. This shift is vital for a sustainable future, considering the lower greenhouse gas emissions, reduced water pollution, biodegradability, energy efficiency, and contribution to nutrient cycles of natural fibers.
In conclusion, the scientific and research data strongly support the environmental benefits of natural fibers over synthetic ones. This shift towards natural fibers is not just a trend but a necessity for a sustainable future in the fashion industry.
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Sustainable Materials Guide: Natural Fabrics to Look Out for
1. Organic or Recycled Cotton:
Organic cotton, distinct from its conventional counterpart, is cultivated without synthetic fertilizers or pesticides, as outlined by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). Its cultivation promotes soil health and conserves water, as evidenced by research from the Textile Exchange. Recycled cotton, on the other hand, derives from post-consumer and post-industrial cotton waste, significantly reducing landfill waste and the need for virgin cotton. Commonly used in T-shirts, jeans, and casual wear, organic cotton's production involves mechanical processes like carding and combing to maintain fiber integrity, as described in a 2019 study in the Journal of Cleaner Production. Recycled cotton involves deconstructing cotton fabric back to fiber stage, a process highlighted in the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's report on circular economy.
2. Hemp
Hemp, a high-yield crop requiring minimal pesticides and water, is becoming a cornerstone of sustainable fashion. As reported by the Journal of Industrial Hemp, its fibers are extracted from the plant's stalk through a process called retting, where the fibers naturally separate. These fibers are then spun into yarns used in clothing items like durable outerwear and breathable summer garments. A study in the Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management notes hemp's superior tensile strength, making it ideal for long-lasting apparel.
3. Linen
Hemp, a high-yield crop requiring minimal pesticides and water, is becoming a cornerstone of sustainable fashion. As reported by the Journal of Industrial Hemp, its fibers are extracted from the plant's stalk through a process called retting, where the fibers naturally separate. These fibers are then spun into yarns used in clothing items like durable outerwear and breathable summer garments. A study in the Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management notes hemp's superior tensile strength, making it ideal for long-lasting apparel.
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4. Lyocell:
Lyocell, a cellulosic fiber made from wood pulp, is renowned for its sustainable manufacturing process, often using eucalyptus, beech, or spruce. A key player is TENCEL™, a brand of lyocell fiber noted for its environmentally responsible production. The closed-loop process, as detailed in the International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment, recycles almost all water and solvents used. Lyocell's smooth and draping qualities make it suitable for dresses, blouses, and activewear.
5. Recycled Wool:
Recycled wool comes from post-consumer wool garments, transforming them into new yarns. This process, detailed in the Journal of Cleaner Production, involves sorting, cleaning, and re-spinning the fibers, substantially reducing waste and resource consumption compared to virgin wool. Recycled wool is often used in outerwear, sweaters, and blankets, offering the same warmth and durability as its virgin counterpart.
Each of these materials showcases a commitment to reducing fashion's environmental impact through thoughtful sourcing, processing, and usage. By opting for these sustainable materials, consumers actively participate in a movement towards a more ecologically responsible and ethical fashion industry.
Sustainable Materials and Natural Fabrics in Clothing: Final Takeaways and Brands Making the Effort
Are you in the market for new clothes and want to try out some new stuff? Let's highlight some of our favorite trailblazing brands with great clothing items made from natural fabrics:
1. Patagonia
FEATURED FAV: Women's Long-Sleeved Regenerative Organic Certified® Cotton Tee
$34.99
Renowned for its commitment to environmental activism, Patagonia offers a range of outdoor and casual wear made from recycled materials and organic cotton. Their dedication to sustainability extends beyond materials, encompassing fair labor practices and environmental initiatives.
2. Eileen Fisher
FEATURED FAV: Peruvian Organic Cotton Crepe V-Neck Long Top
$248
This brand is a testament to elegance in sustainability. Specializing in women's clothing, Eileen Fisher uses organic and recycled materials, ensuring timeless design paired with environmental responsibility. Their transparent supply chain exemplifies a commitment to ethical fashion.
3. Organic Basics
FEATURED FAV: Core Sport Straight Pants
$28
Focusing on everyday essentials, Organic Basics emphasizes eco-friendly materials like organic cotton and recycled fabrics. Their products, ranging from underwear to activewear, are designed for longevity, reducing the environmental toll of frequent replacements.
